Two schemes, two different claims
GOTS and GRS are often mentioned together, but they answer different questions. GOTS, the Global Organic Textile Standard, is about organic fiber in textiles, usually cotton in the yoga wear context. GRS, the Global Recycled Standard, is about recycled content, most often recycled nylon or polyester in performance fabrics.
Both are chain-of-custody schemes. A certified mill or factory can only pass on a certified claim if each stage of the supply chain that handles the material is part of the system. A certified yarn sewn by an uncertified stage into a garment does not automatically produce a certified garment.
The content thresholds
| Scheme | Claim | Threshold |
|---|---|---|
| GOTS | "Organic" label grade | At least 95% certified organic fiber |
| GOTS | "Made with organic" label grade | At least 70% certified organic fiber |
| GRS | Product in scope of the scheme | At least 20% recycled material |
| GRS | Use of the GRS label on the product | At least 50% recycled material |
These thresholds shape product decisions. An organic cotton legging needs spandex for stretch, so the blend determines which GOTS label grade, if any, is possible. A recycled nylon fabric with a recycled share below the GRS label level can still be traced within the scheme, but the product cannot carry the GRS label. Ask the mill for the exact composition on the fabric sheet before you design the hang tag.
GOTS for organic cotton yoga wear
Organic cotton and spandex blends are common in loose yoga wear, meditation pieces and soft studio tops. GOTS covers more than fiber origin: it also sets requirements for processing and chemical inputs along the chain. For a buyer, the practical point is that the spinner, the fabric mill and the garment stage all need to be in the system if you want to make a GOTS claim on the finished product.
That is a real sourcing constraint. Fewer mills offer GOTS-certified knits suitable for activewear than offer conventional cotton. Plan the fabric search early, and confirm availability, composition and colors before you commit to the collection. The organic cotton sourcing note covers fabric choices in more detail.
GRS for recycled nylon and polyester
Recycled synthetic fabrics have become a common request for leggings and bras. The recycled share varies a lot between fabrics. Some are mostly recycled yarn, some blend recycled and virgin yarn, and spandex is usually virgin. GRS gives a framework to trace the recycled share through the chain and, above the label threshold, to show it on the product.
Recycled fabrics should go through the same performance testing as virgin fabrics. Opacity, pilling and colorfastness depend on the yarn and the knit, not on whether the yarn was recycled. The recycled nylon and polyester note discusses what changes and what does not.
Verifying a GOTS or GRS claim
- Ask for the certificate of each stage that handles the material: at minimum the fabric mill and the garment stage.
- Verify each certificate by number with the certifying body or the scheme's public database, and confirm it is current.
- Check the scope: the product categories and processes listed must cover what that stage does for your order.
- Ask about shipment documentation. Chain-of-custody schemes require documentation that links certified material to specific shipments. Confirm with the certifying body what is required for your claim.
- Match composition. The fabric sheet composition should match the content you plan to state on the label.
Claims and the FTC Green Guides
Even with certificates in hand, the wording of the claim matters. The FTC Green Guides advise against unqualified environmental claims such as "eco-friendly" or "sustainable" on their own, because they imply broad benefits that are hard to substantiate. A specific, qualified claim is easier to support.
| Weaker claim | More specific alternative |
|---|---|
| Eco-friendly leggings | Leggings made with fabric containing a stated share of recycled nylon, as listed on the fiber content label |
| Sustainable yoga top | Yoga top made with organic cotton, with the certification scheme and label grade named where it applies |
| Natural bamboo fabric | Viscose (bamboo), as fiber content labeling requires |
The bamboo example is a common trap. Fiber made from bamboo is usually viscose, and the FTC expects it to be labeled as rayon or viscose made from bamboo, not as "bamboo" alone. See eco claims and the Green Guides for more on wording. This is general information; confirm the claims for your market with a compliance adviser.
Related schemes you may hear about
Buyers sometimes treat several schemes as one. OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 covers harmful substances, not organic or recycled content. bluesign covers chemical management at mills. amfori BSCI, SMETA and WRAP are social audits of factories. Each can be useful, but none of them substitutes for GOTS or GRS when the claim is about organic or recycled fiber.
Where certified programs usually go wrong
The fiber is rarely the problem. The usual failures are administrative. The fabric was certified but the garment stage was not, so the claim stops at the fabric. The composition changed slightly between sample and bulk, which moved the product below a label threshold. A reorder was placed with a different mill whose certificate was never checked. Or the marketing team wrote a broader claim on the website than the hang tag carried. Each of these can be prevented with a short checklist attached to the purchase order: which claim, which scheme, which stages, which certificate numbers, and who approves the final wording before it is printed or published.
It also helps to keep claims modest at launch. A first order with a clear, narrow claim that is fully documented is a stronger starting point than a broad claim that relies on documents still being collected.
Planning a certified line
Start with the claim you want to make, then work backward: which fiber share, which scheme, which stages need certification, and which mills and factories can supply them. Expect fewer fabric choices and a longer search, and confirm availability in writing before sampling. Our sustainable yoga wear hub covers material routes, and the compliance page explains how we handle documents. When you have a target claim, send it to the desk with your styles.