Why length deserves its own decision
A legging that is too long bunches at the ankle and looks baggy. One that is too short reads as a mistake rather than a style. Because leggings are stretchy, a small difference in length also changes how the fabric sits on the calf and knee, which affects compression and opacity. Length is therefore a design choice, a fit choice and a size chart choice at the same time.
The good news is that length is one of the easiest things to control once it is written down. The inseam value is set on the tech pack and on the size chart, with a tolerance, and it is checked at every sample and at inspection.
Common length options
Activewear lines use a small set of length names. The names are not standardized, so the inseam behind each name is your decision. Two widely used reference points are a 25 in inseam for a 7/8 legging and a 28 in inseam for a full-length legging. Treat these as common options to start from, not as industry standards; the value you choose is set on the tech pack and size chart.
| Length name | Where it ends on the body | Inseam reference | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full length | At or near the ankle bone | Common option around 28 in; set on tech pack | Cooler studios, outdoor, all-day wear |
| 7/8 | Above the ankle | Common option around 25 in; set on tech pack | Studio staple; avoids bunching on shorter customers |
| Capri or 3/4 | Mid-calf | Set on tech pack | Hot yoga, warm climates |
| Bike or short legging | Mid-thigh to above knee | Set on tech pack | Hot yoga, layering, training |
A 7/8 length is often the safest first style, because it ends above the ankle on most customers and looks intentional across a wide range of heights. A full length suits customers who want coverage and warmth. Capri and short lengths are popular for heated classes; see hot yoga wear.
How inseam is measured
Inseam is measured along the inside leg seam from the crotch point to the hem, with the garment lying flat and relaxed. Two details cause most disagreements. First, where the crotch point is when there is a gusset: some buyers measure from the center of the gusset, others from where the inseam meets the gusset. Second, whether the hem band is included. Write both on the tech pack so the factory, the inspector and your size chart all use the same method.
Outseam, measured along the side from the waistband top to the hem, is sometimes used as well. It includes the rise and the waistband, so it changes when you change the waistband height. Inseam is more stable for comparing lengths across styles.
Length variants for different heights
Some lines offer the same legging in two or three lengths, often labeled for shorter, regular and taller customers. This helps fit and reduces returns, but it multiplies the SKUs. Each length is a separate pattern variant and, depending on how the factory counts, can count as a separate style for MOQ purposes. Confirm how length variants are counted before planning. As typical reference ranges, cut and sew MOQ sits around 100-300 pcs per style per color and seamless around 300-500, confirmed in writing for each program.
A practical middle path is to offer one 7/8 length across the range and add a full length in core colors only. That covers most customers with fewer SKUs. The collection planning note discusses how to keep the assortment manageable.
Grading length across sizes
Does inseam change from the smallest to the largest size? Some brands keep one inseam for all sizes because length relates to height more than to width. Others grade inseam slightly with size. Both approaches exist, and neither is a rule. Decide which approach you want, write it into the grade rules, and make sure the size chart reflects it. If inseam is constant, say so on the size chart so customers understand that larger sizes are not longer. The grading note explains how grade rules are built and confirmed.
Seamless lengths
Seamless leggings knitted on electronic circular seamless knitting machines have their length set in the knit program. Changing length means reprogramming and resampling rather than shortening a pattern, so settle length early. Seamless leggings also tend to relax and lengthen slightly in wear depending on the yarn and knit, so check length after a wear and wash cycle on the sample.
Shrinkage and length
A legging that shrinks in the wash loses length first, because the length direction is often where knitted fabric changes most. Ask for dimensional change after laundering, tested to AATCC 135, on the finished fabric or garment. If the result shows meaningful change, adjust the pattern so the washed length matches the size chart, and write care instructions that reflect the test conditions. See shrinkage and dimensional stability.
Hem finishes and length
- Coverstitched hem: durable and familiar; adds a folded band at the ankle.
- Bonded or laser-cut edge: flat and clean, sits smoothly under socks or boots; needs a fabric suited to raw-edge finishing.
- Split or vented hem: a design detail on flared or full-length styles; check that the vent stays flat after washing.
- Seamless hem: knitted in; length set in the program.
The hem finish also affects the measured length, because a folded hem and a raw edge end at different points. Write the finished length, after hemming, on the tech pack.
Tolerance and inspection
Set a length tolerance per point of measure on the tech pack. At inspection, the inspector measures inseam on a sample of garments from each size and color and compares it with the size chart and tolerance. Length errors are easy to catch at this stage and expensive to catch after delivery, so include inseam in every measurement check.
Also check that length is consistent between colors. Different dye lots and fabrics can shrink differently in finishing, so a black and a light color made from the same pattern may finish at slightly different lengths. Measuring each color separately catches this before cartons are sealed.
Putting it together
Choose your length names, set the inseam for each on the tech pack, decide whether inseam grades with size, test shrinkage, choose the hem finish and set a tolerance. Then publish the same numbers on your size chart. Browse the leggings guide or send your length plan to the desk for review.