Why sampling deserves a plan
Buyers often treat samples as a single event: order one, look at it, approve or reject. In practice a yoga apparel program passes through several sample stages, and each one answers a different question. When those questions get mixed together, comments become vague, rounds multiply and the bulk date slips.
A first sample typically takes 7-15 days once fabric and specification are agreed. Every additional round adds time of the same order. The aim is not to avoid samples but to make each one count.
The stages at a glance
| Stage | Question it answers | What you approve |
|---|---|---|
| Fabric sheet and swatch | Is this the right material? | Composition, base and finished GSM, finish, colors, test plan |
| Proto sample | Is the construction right? | Seams, waistband build, gusset, pockets, cups |
| Fit sample | Does it fit the body you design for? | Measurements against the spec, comments by point of measure |
| Size set (if needed) | Does the grading work across sizes? | Smallest, middle and largest sizes checked on fit models or measured |
| Pre-production sample | Will bulk match the approval? | Bulk fabric, bulk color, final trims, labels and packaging |
| Shipment sample | Did bulk match? | Pieces pulled from finished goods for your records |
Small programs often combine stages. A proto in the right fabric can double as the fit sample, and a simple reorder may go straight to a pre-production check. What matters is that you know which question you are answering each time.
Stage one: fix the fabric first
The most expensive sampling mistake is judging fit on the wrong fabric. A legging sewn in a fabric with less spandex or lower weight will fit and feel differently from the bulk version. Ask the partner factory or mill for a fabric sheet before the proto: composition, base and finished GSM with tolerance, finish, and the colors you plan to run. Approve opacity on your lightest color. See the legging fabric guide for what belongs on the sheet.
Stage two: the proto
The proto shows whether the construction works. Look at the waistband: does it roll, is the height as specified, is the inner layer finished cleanly? Check the gusset shape and placement, seam type, pocket depth and whether bonded or laser-cut edges lie flat. For seamless styles, check that rib and compression zones fall where the body map says they should.
At this stage, comment on construction, not on small measurement differences. Measurement tuning belongs in the fit round.
Stage three: fit
Fit samples are judged on a body that matches your base size, through movement rather than standing still. For yoga wear that means a deep squat, a forward fold, a lunge and a seated twist. Watch for waistband slip, seat opacity, gusset pull and bra band riding up. Then measure the garment against your specification.
Photograph each issue and number it. Send one consolidated comment list, not a stream of messages. The fastest programs are the ones where each round has a single, clear set of changes. Our note on writing a tech pack shows how to set measurements and tolerances so fit comments refer to agreed numbers.
Stage four: size set
If the line covers a wide size range, especially extended sizes, ask for the smallest, base and largest size before bulk. Grading that works at the base size can fail at the ends: a waistband that sits well in size M may gape in XS or roll in 2X. For plus sizes, see plus-size fit development.
Stage five: pre-production
The pre-production sample is made in bulk fabric, bulk color and final trims. This is the sample the inspection is measured against. Check the color against your standard under consistent light, confirm labels carry the right fiber content, care instructions and country of origin, and check the hang tag and polybag. Sign and keep one piece; the factory keeps a matching piece.
What samples typically cost and who keeps them
Sample charges, freight for samples and whether sample charges are credited against a bulk order are set per program and confirmed in writing before sampling starts. Ask how many pieces you will receive per round and whether the factory keeps a counter sample. A counter sample with the factory is useful: when a question comes up during bulk, both sides look at the same approved reference.
Common reasons for extra rounds
- The fabric changed between proto and fit, so fit had to be judged again.
- Comments arrived in pieces over several days and contradicted each other.
- The specification had no tolerances, so every measurement became a discussion.
- A new feature was added after fit approval, such as a pocket or a different cup.
- Opacity was approved in black and then failed in a light color.
Who should review each sample
Decide early who signs off on what. The person judging fit should be the same at every round, wearing or fitting the same base size, so that comments compare like with like. Fabric and color approval is often better done by someone who will also check bulk, because they will hold the reference. If a studio owner or teacher is reviewing, ask them to move through the same short sequence each time rather than wearing the sample casually for a week.
Keep a simple log per style: round number, date received, issues found, decisions made and who made them. When a question appears during bulk, the log shows what was agreed and why, and it saves the program from re-opening decisions that were already settled.
Sampling across two routes
If your collection mixes seamless and cut and sew styles, sampling runs in two places with different logic. Seamless changes often mean rewriting part of the knitting program, so adjustments are made in the knit rather than by moving a seam. Cut and sew changes are pattern changes. Plan the launch around whichever route needs more rounds. The production process page shows how the desk tracks both.
Getting started
Bring reference styles, your fabric preferences and a base size specification, even a rough one. The desk coordinates fabric sheets, protos and fit rounds with the partner factory and keeps one comment log per style. When you are ready, send a brief and we will propose a sampling plan with dates confirmed in writing.